Farr on food: Waiter! there is some watercress in my soup

Sep 8 2010 With Terry J Farr Of Friends Restaurant In Pinner, Harrow Observer

WATERCRESS is regularly used as a garnish for roasts and grills.

The main reason being that the refreshing, peppery flavour complements the taste of the meat, a fact that is often overlooked by chefs, who may add a token sprig, substitute it with parsley, or worst of all, arrange a small bouquet of yellowing, foul-tasting watercress with their grilled meat.

At its freshest, it can be added to salads, and also makes an excellent soup, sauce or mousse.

Also known as Nasturtium officinale, watercress is common throughout most of Europe but not in the Scottish Highlands or central Wales.

There are watercress beds around the Chorleywood area, where I occasionally walk.

Being semi-aquatic, it grows in slightly alkaline chalk streams, where the plant floats due to its hollow stems. This remarkable plant has been used as a medicinal herb for centuries, although cultivation on a commercial scale did not start until the early 19th century.

I will not go into the health problems that it is claimed to help with, there are many - and perhaps slightly unpalatable for a cookery column!

However, here is a favourite version of a popular soup.

Watercress soup with crayfish and creme fraiche

Serves 4 Ingredients

**1 bunch watercress, roughly chopped (about 100g)

* 50g unsalted butter

* 1 medium onion, chopped

* 50g chopped leeks

* 25g chopped celery

* 1 medium potato, peeled and chopped

* 1 litre chicken or vegetable stock

* 4 tsp creme fraiche

**12 cooked crayfish tails

* salt

Method

1) Gently cook the onion, leeks and celery in the butter without colour and until soft.

2) Add the potato, stir until coated with the butter, then add hot stock.

3) Bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes.

4) Add the watercress and simmer for five minutes.

5) Allow to cool slightly then liquidise until smooth.

6) Strain through a coarse sieve into a clean pan, reboil, adding a little water if too thick.

7) Season to taste and stir in the crayfish.

8) Serve in warm soup bowls with a scoop of creme fraiche on top.