Farr on food: Food to make you smile

Jun 3 2010 With Terry J Farr Of Friends Restaurant In Pinner, Harrow Observer

PINNER Fair seems to come around very quickly, and as usual, guarantees me a three-day break when I often head down to the South of France.

Many people tend to think of the Mediterranean countries as Spain, France, Italy and Greece.

There are, of course, quite a few other countries on the edges of this emotive sea, including the North African states, Turkey and Israel.

But this column is about food. The idea of Mediterranean food has often influenced the menu at Friends, and my appetite has been whetted by the array of ingredients available from the region.

Vegetables are very important in this style of cooking: Peppers, courgettes, aubergines and garlic, as well as many more.

Fish and seafood contribute to what is commonly considered a very healthy diet and lifestyle.

I cannot be the only one to notice that the inhabitants of southern Spain, Provence and Tuscany generally smile a lot, as do people in other Mediterranean countries.

Pulses and nuts feature frequently on the menu, domestically and commercially.

Chickpeas and haricot beans, almonds and pine kernels all play a part. Olives are grown almost everywhere, producing wonderfully aromatic oils.

There is also the fruit, and if you have never cycled or walked past fields of Charentais melons or strawberries at the height of the season, you really should, just to experience the sheer heady perfume that hangs in the air.

Herbs are widely used, and remind me of this description of a stroll through fields in Provence: 'Imagine the smells and aromas as you walk through lavender, rosemary and thyme, gently crushing them under foot'.

The approach to Mediterranean cookery is also important. There is a joie de vivre about the people, so relax (or 'chill' as my boys would say) and try this simple, typical recipe.

Daube d'Aubergines (Provence)

Ingredients (serves 4)

* 600g aubergines, cut into thick slices

* 600g plum tomatoes, peeled and diced roughly

* half a bottle of red wine * 1 clove of garlic, crushed

* 2 sprigs of fresh thyme

* 1 bay leaf

* 2 tsp caster sugar

* 3 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley

* olive oil

* salt and pepper

Method

1. Salt the aubergine and leave to drain for 30 minutes.

2. Put all the other ingredients in a pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Dry the aubergines with kitchen paper and fry in hot olive oil until golden brown on each side.

4. Add them to the sauce and simmer gently for about 30 minutes.

5. Add the parsley at the end and season to taste.

6. If the sauce becomes too thick during cooking, simply add some warm water. Serve hot or cold.