Farr on food: A celebration of asparagus

May 13 2010 With Terry J Farr Of Friends Restaurant In Pinner, Harrow Observer

THE arrival of English asparagus signals the start of celebrations in places like the Vale of Evesham, with the annual asparagus festival.

This event has become more and more popular, and follows the success of the famous asparagus auctions at The Fleece Inn in Bretforton. Quite right too, as in these fertile areas grows some of the very best asparagus. It takes three years from sowing the first seeds to harvesting the first spears. This is one the few vegetables that is perennial, with a plant life of about 10 years.

This year's crop may not be a bumper one because of the weather earlier in the year, but what I have tasted is good.

In summary, we have green, which is grown here, white, violet (or purple) and wild. The green is widely grown in America too, where it is classified as colossal, jumbo, large, standard, or small.

The white is preferred in Europe, where the stalks are denied sunlight, and the result is a milder, more delicate flavour. The violet variety is found in England and Italy, and grows to a thickish girth.

Wild asparagus is found in the south of France and the northern part of Italy around the Mediterranean.

The season is quite short so we need to have a number of options for how to serve this amazing vegetable, to eat it as regularly as possible.

Here is one that I like, and it could be a snack or supper dish.

Grilled asparagus bruschetta

Ingredients (Serves four)

Note: Allow five spears per person, ensuring that they are young and not too thick (the asparagus that is, not the diners).

* 1 head of garlic, unpeeled

* 1 tbsp finely chopped shallot

* 3 tbsp olive oil

* 1 tsp balsamic vinegar

* 1 tsp red wine vinegar

* Sea salt and freshly-milled pepper

* 4 slices of country-style bread or ciabatta

Method 1) Preheat the oven to 180ºC/gas mark 4.

2) Coat the head of garlic with one tablespoon of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Place on a baking sheet and roast 45 minutes in the preheated oven until golden brown. Once the garlic is roasted, cut the head in half horizontally, exposing all the cloves. Squeeze both halves into a bowl, discarding any skin. Whisk in two tablespoons of olive oil, salt, and pepper.

3) While the garlic is roasting, place the chopped shallot in a bowl with the balsamic and red wine vinegars for about 30 minutes to marinate.

4) Whisk in the remaining olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the asparagus spears in the mixture until ready to grill.

5) Heat the grill pan to a medium heat and place asparagus on the grill, turning over once, until tender - about 10 minutes.

6) While the asparagus is grilling, spread the roasted garlic mixture on the bread. Grill the bread until toasted.

7) Arrange the bread and asparagus on a plate and drizzle with the remaining shallot and vinegar mixture.