Farr on food: Wake up and smell the gravy

Dec 9 2009 With Terry J Farr Of Friends Restaurant In Pinner,

LAST week, I bumped into an old friend and the first thing she said was: "I've lost your gravy recipe, thank goodness I've seen you."

I often receive text messages and emails, normally when I'm busy, asking what to do next, halfway through the sender preparing some repast.

A memorable meal is not just about the principal character (your meat, poultry or whatever) because the supporting cast makes an enormous difference to your efforts.

Well, it is that time of year when we start thinking about Christmas lunch and for most of us that means turkey, goose or duck. I know many people discard the residual contents of the roasting tray, thinking it is just fat and therefore not good for you, but that is where the flavour for your gravy disappears down the drain.

We call the process of making the gravy de-glazing, whereby you simply fry a few roughly chopped root vegetables and herbs in the residual fat until nicely caramelised.

Then strain to remove the fat and return the vegetables to the pan, adding stock. At this stage you can discard the fat, unless you are going to roast your potatoes in it for extra flavour. The sediment left by the roasted joint will get incorporated into the gravy, having already been absorbed by the vegetables. That which has become attached to the bottom of the tray will loosen and also become incorporated.

And for the stock? Trim off the little wing tips and knuckles, take the neck and giblets, not the liver or heart, and cover with cold water, adding the appropriate herbs. For turkey, I suggest a small sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. For chicken, a sprig of rosemary, and a crushed clove of garlic. For duck and goose, some sage leaves and add a little cider. Then simmer for about 20 minutes.

Gravy

Ingredients (for 4-6 portions) * 50g chopped onion * 50g chopped carrot * 25g chopped celery * 1 clove of garlic, crushed * 1 bay leaf * 1 sprig of the appropriate herb (see above) * 500ml stock

Method 1) Remove the joint from the pan. Add the chopped vegetables and gently fry until well coloured. The fat should now be clear, so drain it off through a sieve and return the vegetables to the pan.

2) Add the stock and simmer for five to 10 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon, gently scraping the sediment from the base of the pan.

3) Season to taste, and strain into a warm sauce boat.

Terry's tip: You could thicken the gravy slightly, if desired, with a little diluted arrowroot.